Fagoting embroidery and method of manufacturing same



W 19, 1932- I J. SNARCK 1,855,003

FAGOTING EMBROIDERY AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SAME Filed Dec. 26, 1931INVENTOR WWI SNARCK n u k W4 .Q/ L/ A'ITORNEY Patented Apr. 19, 1932UNITED STATES .mcx siuzacx, on 'NEW. You, R. Y.

FAGOTING EMBRODEBY AND IE'I'HOD OF MANUFACTURING SAME 31, 1 med December26, 1981. Serial No. 583,330. B

This invention relates to improvements in fagoting embroidery andmethods of manufactur' same.

One the'objects of this invention is to provide a method and apparatusfor producing fagoting embroidery with great speed and economy; toproduce a method whereby a subsequently dischargeable fabric is employedto provide an interposed protective oundation or element between thefagoting cross-threads and the embroidery fabric so as to enable thecutting and edge-foldin tools to be rapidly and quickly m'ani ulate tosever or slit fabric traversely of suc crossthreads and to fold over thesevered edges without danger of severing orotherwise 1njuring thecross-threads or stitches; to provide a method and a paratus by the useof which the severed e es of slit in the embroidery fabric may in one oeration, neatly and quickly opened up, fol ed over and initially ironedin preparation for subsequent pressing and fastening down. a

With these and other objects in view, the invention comprises thecombination of members and arran ement of parts so combined as to co-actand cocrate with each other in the performance 0 the functions and theaccomplishment of the results herein contemplated, and comprises in oneof its adaptions the species or preferred form illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, in which: i

Fig. 1 is a view in plan of a finished piece of fagoting embroideryembodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a section on the line 22 of Fig. 1, looking in the directionof the arrow;

Fig. 3 is a view in plan of the reverse side of a piece of material orfabric mounted upon vanishing fabric and stitched with a fagotingstitch;

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3 looking in the directionof the arrow;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showingthe embroidered material slitintermediate the cross-threads of the fagoting stitch;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Figs. 3 and 5 showing the edges of the slitfabric initially folded by a novel turning and pressing or foldingclement;

Fig. 7 is a side elevation of a novel tool employed in slit-opening,edge turning and initial hot-pressing or ironing;

Fig. 8 is a bottom view in plan of the tool shown in Fig. 7

Fig. 9 is an enlarged detail view of the fagoting embroidery stitchpreferably employed by me.

Referring now to these drawings which illustrate a preferred embodimentof my invention, 1 indicates a single, unfolded piece of fabric ormaterial to be embroidered, which I shall hereinafter call an embroideryfabric, 2 indicates a piece of heat-dischargeable fabric, adapted onsubjection to heat to be discharged and to be brushed away, and which,in the preferred embodiment of my invention, I utilize as a protectivefoundation fabric or protective element. As illustrated in Figs. 3 and4, the, embroidery fabric superposed over the h eat-dischargeable fabricwith the front face of the embroidery fabric abutting the dissolvablefabric, and a fagoting-embroidery stitch, preferabl such as -shown inFig. 9, is stitched throng both of said fabrics to produce a suitabledesign of any bent or curvi-form configuration and composed of two rowsof parallel longitudinal stitches having cross-threads extending betweenthe same and all formed or arranged in a single plane. My preferredstitch, 3, comprises a chain-stitch portion 3, fagoting cross-threads 3aand connecting stitch portion 36. When this stitch is made in thesuperposed embroidery fabric and discharge- 3' and 36 may be slit, asshown at 4 in Figs 5 and ,6 by a pair of scissors, a knife or m anyothersuitable manner, and in this slitting operation, the heat-dissolvableprotective element 2, being disposed betweenthe fabric 1 and thecross-threads 3a will serve as a protective foundation to preventengagement and severing of cross threads by the severing tool, thuspermitting greater speed in manufacturing than would otherwise bepossible.

After the fabric is slit as shown at 4 in Figs. 5 and 6, I open up theslit, turn over the edge and initially iron or hot-press the same, andfor this purpose, I utilize a novel device combinin edge turner andinitial hot presser.

The slit-opening portion of this tool is inserted in the slit and uponsliding the tool along through the slit on the dischargeable fabric Iturn or fo1d outwardly and downwardly in opposite directions themarginal edges adjacent to the slit and in the same operation I iron orhotress these edges so as to cause such edges to initially retain theirfolded position.

As illustrated in Figs; 6 to 8 inclusive, I utilize a tool having apointed and upwardly inclined portion which is preferably semiconic inconfiguration and is adapted for ready insertion in the slit to cause araising of the fabric edges and this pointed semiconic orupwardly-inclined portion merges with another portion for turning downsuch edges, and said tool also provides means for the initial pressingor ironing of such edges so as to cause them to maintain their foldedcondition.

As illustrated, my novel tool 5 includes a metallic head 6, having apointed insertion portion"? provided with an upwardly-m clined surface 7merging with a reverselyinclined wall portion 7 a serving as a turningportion. Said wall portion 7a is slightly inclined in the oppositedirection and has a bevelled edge 7b. This bevel-edged wall 7apreferably surrounds the semi-conic pointed nose, constituting a majorcircumference mer ing at its lower end with a fiat bottom portion 70which preferably extends outwardly to provide ressing wing portionsbeneath which the fa ric margin is lead to permit hot pressing. Thisflat surface also preferably merges or extends to the point 7.

Suitable means is employed for supplying *heat to the tool 5and' in theembodiment shown, the head 6 is provided with a shank 6' which screwsinto a handle 8. The handle 8 has a suitable socket 8 and contains an 1electric heating element of conventional between the edges 33b of thestitch 3 and in one tool a slit-opener,.

- beneath said initially folded marginal edges over the protectingfabric 2 and forming a uide for the semi-conic opening surface 7'.

his portion 7 f lifts and opens the marginal edges of the slit and theseedges upon reaching the bevelled wall 7a are turned outwardly anddownwardly'beneath the outer wing portions 7d which merges with the fiatportion 7 c. The heating of the heating element thereupon supplies thenecessary heat and pressing or ironing means to initially retain saidfolded portion 'in folded condition.

After initially folding down the marginal edges as above described, Iapply on the reverse side of the fabricbeneath the folded edges of theslit a conventional fastening material such as rubber," which is sprayeby the use of conventional spraying apparatus.

The embroidered fabric is then, preferably 2* in one operation orsimultaneously, subjected to heat and pressure whichnot only securelyfastens down the said marginal edges but also serves to discharge theprotective dischar ing and heating may be brushed away to leave the openfagoting channel with the cross-threads only of fagoting stitchesexposed at the front side as shown'in Fig. 1,

while the parallel chain and connecting stitch portions 3, 3b areconcealed on the reverse side by the fastened down marginal edges of theslit.

As many changes could be made in the above construction and manyapparently widely different embodiments of thls invention could be madewithout departing from the scope thereof; it is intended that all mattercontained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawingsshall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having described my invention, I claim:

1. The methodof manufacturing fagoting embroidery consisting inembroidering a single piece of material with two rows of parallelstitches and cross-threads extending between such stitches, slitting thefabric between such parallel rows of stitching, and in a singleoperation folding down the edges of the slitted portion in oppositedirections over the parallel rows of stitching to conceal the same andapplying heat to said edges to retain the same-in folded position.

2. The method of manufacturing fagoting embroidery consisting in takinga piece of fabric to be embroidered, superimposin the same on a piece offabric dischargeab e by heat, applying a fagoting embroidery stitchthrough said fabric to be embroidered and through said dischargeablefabric to cause longitudinal parallel rows of stitches to be exposed onone side of said embroidered fabric and cross stitches to be exposed onthe opposite side of the dischargeable fabric, slitable fabric which,after such pressting said embroidered fabric between saidiexposed twolongitudinal rows of, stitches and above said dischar eable fabric,foldin the edges of the slitted ortion downwardly to conceal the rows ofstitches and simultaneously turning over the edges of the slittedport1on and ironing the same in a single operation to initiall retainthe same in folded condition and t en simultaneously subjecting saidfabric to heat and pressure to dischar the dischargeable material and topress t a and above said dlschargeable fabric, folding the edges of theslitted portion downwardly to conceal the longitudinal rows of stitchesand in the same operation simultaneously turning over the edges of theslitted portion to retain such edges in initially folded condition,spraying under the folded edge portions a fastenin material and thensimultaneously subjecting said fabric to heat and pressure to dischargethe dischargeable material and to press the folded edges.

4. Fagoting embroidery embodying, in combination, a single piece offabric, a stitch embroidered in said fabric in an ornamental curvi-formdesign of any suitable configuration and comprisin two rows of parallellongitudinal stitches th arranged complete- 1y on one face of the fabricand cross-threads passing through the fabric to the opposite ace 0 t hefabric, said fabric having an open channel between said parallellongitudinal stitches to expose the cross-threads and having the ed s ofthe fabric at each side of the channe folded and fastened down over thesaid rows of longitudinal stitches to conceal the same. I

In witness whereof I have signed my name to the foregoing specification.

JACK SNARCK.

